Chemical laces (also called Guipure laces) were an invention of the Swiss lace industry of the mid-19th century and became very “en vogue” starting around 1880. These laces were embroidered on a ground that was then etched away in an acid bath . For example, cotton thread might be embroidered on a silk cloth which was then dissolved in bleach, leaving the cotton thread unaffected. The resulting lace could range from as fine as a cobweb to quite heavy for curtains, etc. This chemical lace (guipure) soon became very popular since it was beautiful and affordable, offering a range of patterns and designs that one can hardly visualize today.
Chemical laces are still produced today (mainly in viscose rayon), but the delicacy of the thread and the designs of the old days are gone forever – they would be too expensive to produce today.
Guipure laces can be cut apart without falling apart and can be dyed easlily since they shrink only marginally. I dye white lace using strong coffee in a hot (not boiling) water bath with some cooking salt added. Wet the lace, immerse it into the coffee bath ( a sink, a bucket) for about 10 minutes or longer (check the color depth frequently). Then rinse the lace well, add a little fabric softener to the last rinse water, roll the lace in a dry towel, pull the lace in shape and let it almost get dry. Press well with a hot iron. You will obtain a beautiful, drapey ecru lace.
All Guipure laces shown here are old (not antique), Swiss made and 100% cotton. All are limited stock only – as long asw supplies last.
