The most complete introduction to embroidery craftsmanship

Designers must understand

1.First acquaintance with the three elements of embroidery: needle, thread and cloth

2. Embroidery machine 

1)Embroidery machine is the product of modern scientific and technological progress, which can replace most artificial embroidery. It has the advantages of stable quality, high efficiency, low cost, and mass production.

The main functions and performance of the embroidery machine are determined by: the number of heads, the distance between the heads, the number of needles, the maximum stroke in the X and Y directions of the embroidery frame, the electronic control system, the manufacturer’s brand, etc. The number of heads is the number of machine heads working at the same time during embroidery, which determines the efficiency of the embroidery machine; the head distance is the distance between two adjacent machine heads, which determines the size and cost of a single embroidery item or cycle of embroidery machine embroidery ;The number of needles is the number of single needles installed in each head of the embroidery machine, which determines the maximum number of color changes when the embroidery machine embroiders, and the color of the embroidery; the maximum stroke in the X and Y directions of the embroidery frame determines the embroidery machine. The size of the embroidered product; the electronic control system. At present, the electronic control operating systems of domestic embroidery machines mainly include Dahao Electronic Control, Yida Electronic Control, Richpeace Electronic Control, Shanlong Electronic Control and so on. Different manufacturers and brands correspond to different quality, service and professional embroidery machines.

2)working principle

All embroidery machines are composed of two parts: the first part moves the machine head up and down to sew the bottom thread; the second part moves the embroidery frame in the X and Y directions to form the stitched stitches. Auxiliary systems include: broken thread detection system, thread passing and tension adjustment system, embroidery speed, needle code coordination control system, etc.

3)Richpeace Embroidery Machine

Richpeace Computer Precision Embroidery Machine

Richpeace Computerized Flocking Embroidery Machine

Computer single head cap embroidery garment embroidery machine

Computer mixed winding embroidery machine

3. Classification of embroidery samples

1. Flat embroidery

Flat embroidery is the most widely used embroidery in embroidery, as long as it is a material that can be embroidered, flat embroidery can be done.

2. Three-dimensional embroidery

Three-dimensional embroidery (3D) is a three-dimensional pattern formed by wrapping EVA plastic inside with embroidery thread. It can be produced by ordinary flat embroidery. (EVA glue has different thickness, hardness and color).

3. Hollow three-dimensional embroidery

Hollow three-dimensional embroidery can be produced by ordinary flat embroidery. It is embroidered with foam glue similar to three-dimensional embroidery. After the embroidery is completed, the foam glue is washed off with a dry cleaning machine to form a hollow in the middle. (The surface of the foam is smooth, and the thickness is usually 1~5mm

4. Appliqué

Appliqué is the use of appliqués instead of stitches to save embroidery thread and make the pattern more vivid, which can be produced by ordinary flat embroidery machines.

5. Thick thread embroidery

Thick thread embroidery is to use thicker (such as 603) sewing thread as embroidery thread, with large hole needle or large needle, thick thread hook and 3mm needle plate to complete the embroidery, ordinary flat embroidery machine can be produced

6. Carved hole embroidery

Hole-cut embroidery can be produced on an ordinary flat embroidery machine, but a hole-cut embroidery device (currently only installed on the 1st needle bar) needs to be installed. It is to use a hole carving knife to carve through the fabric, and then wrap the edge with embroidery thread to form a hole in the middle.

7. Flat gold thread embroidery

The flat gold thread can be produced on ordinary flat embroidery machines. Since the flat gold thread is a flat embroidery thread, it is necessary to install a flat gold thread device (which can be installed on any needle bar)

8. Sequined diamond embroidery

It truly integrates flat embroidery, sequin embroidery, and diamond embroidery, and is an outstanding representative of mechatronics. High quality: less thread breakage and good embroidery quality under high-speed operation.

The diamond-encrusted embroidery uses automated machines, Swarovski rhinestones and various colored spar to give creativity a more luxurious and fashionable melody. Need to install the embroidery machine configuration.

9. Flocking embroidery

Flocking embroidery can be produced on an ordinary flat embroidery machine, but a flocking needle needs to be installed. The principle of embroidery is to use the hook on the flocking needle to hook up the fiber velvet on the flannel and plant it on another fabric. After the embroidery is finished, a part of the film needs to be cut off and then all the film is taken away, and the embroidery thread will stand up naturally.

One of the embroidery methods of flocking embroidery is toothbrush embroidery

10. Wrinkle embroidery

Crinkle embroidery can be produced on ordinary flat embroidery machines, but it needs to be matched with shrinkable backing and water-soluble bottom thread. After embroidery, the shrinkable backing is heat-shrinked to make the fabric wrinkle. When the water-soluble bottom thread is dissolved by water bubbles, the backing can be The cloth is separated, but it should be noted that the effect is obvious only when the cloth is made of chemical fiber.

11. Finished cap embroidery

Finished cap embroidery can only be produced by matching the cap frame on a cylindrical machine. It is an embroidery method in which the cap is finished and then embroidered on the machine.

12. Garment embroidery

Garment embroidery needs to be produced on a cylindrical machine with a garment frame. It is an embroidery method in which the finished garment is embroidered on the machine.

13. Chain embroidery

It is also a popular embroidery method in Europe and the United States. It is completed by changing the hooking action of the special machine head. Because the coil is a ring buckle, the shape is like a chain, hence the name. Because of the unique effect, it is a very profitable embroidery

14. Towel Embroidery

15. Tape embroidery

As a special computerized embroidery machine, “panel embroidery” is a supplement to the function of the lockstitch embroidery machine (flat embroidery machine). Its appearance makes up for many embroidery tasks that the lockstitch embroidery machine cannot complete, and makes the computerized embroidery more three-dimensional. , the expression form is more abundant and colorful

Broadband embroidery

A type of tape embroidery, 30mm-50mm wide band embroidery, with a vertical three-dimensional effect, it is mostly used in advanced dresses, wedding dresses and other women’s clothing.

17. Dark embroidery

The difference between dark embroidery and cord embroidery is that the embroidery thread is pressed under the cord during dark embroidery. The presence of the embroidery thread cannot be seen from the surface, while cord embroidery can directly see the embroidery of the fixed cord.

18. Cord Embroidery

Trace rope embroidery

An important embroidery method is the use of embroidery thread to wrap the string inside.

Thick knot rope embroidery

A kind of rope embroidery, which breaks through the limitations of previous production and can be embroidered with a rope of different thicknesses. On sweaters and knitted fabrics, special craftsmanship that imitates hand embroidery can be made. Need to configure special guide nozzle

19. Laser Cut Embroidery

Laser cutting embroidery is a fusion of embroidery and laser technology. Laser cutting is divided into surface cutting, half cutting and full cutting.

Fourth, the production method of special embroidery: (Richpeace embroidery CAD software)

Laser Embroidery:

The principle of laser embroidery machine: After the laser power supply is energized, a high voltage is generated and loaded into the laser tube. There is a special gas containing carbon dioxide in the laser tube, and the laser is generated under the action of high pressure. “Laser embroidery” can produce various complex, innovative and popular appliqué patterns by combining with embroidery machine due to its slender beam, high-speed movement and continuous cutting.

Embroidery methods of laser embroidery machine: appliqué embroidery, hollow embroidery, hollow embroidery, trimming embroidery.

Appliqué embroidery: It breaks the traditional hand-applied appliqué, the appliqué cannot be sewn together, and the appliqué is too large to cut the edges with scissors; it saves the process of cutting the appliqué on the cutting machine; it saves the boss expensive glue cost.

Dig hole embroidery : can cut multiple layers of fabric. The upper layer of fabric is cut off by laser to expose the lower fabric, and a layered transition color is embroidered. This is something that ordinary embroidery machines cannot do.

6. Embroidery raw materials

1. Line

1) Rayon (often used for upper thread)

2) Polyester yarn (commonly used for upper thread)

3) Cotton thread (often used for bottom thread)

4) Gold thread (for upper thread), others include wool thread, nylon thread, hemp, etc.

Human silk thread: commonly used thread for embroidery. Human silk thread, also known as rayon and man-made fiber, is the result of modern scientific progress, and its feel and luster can be comparable to silk. Rayon is made of plant fibers through various processes, which is easy to be affected by moisture, and its strength is significantly reduced after being affected by moisture. It can be colored at low temperature, with low dyeing cost and easy control. Rayon is more expensive, has good hand feel, good gloss, good coloring and bright color, and is suitable for high-end embroidery. Commonly used human silk thread specifications: 250D/2, 150D/3, 150D/2, 120D/2, etc.

 

Pure cotton thread: commonly used thread for embroidery. Also known as cotton thread, it is made of combed cotton yarn, with high strength, even dryness, bright color, complete color spectrum, good luster, light resistance, washing resistance, no lint, embroidered on cotton, linen, man-made fiber fabrics, beautiful Generous and widely used. Upper and lower thread that can be used for embroidery. Common cotton thread specifications: 30S/2, 40S/2, 60S/2

 

Rayon: Also known as mercerized cotton, it is made of polyester and cotton, with brightness and luster. Good tensile strength. Upper and lower thread that can be used for embroidery. Commonly used artificial cotton thread specifications: 30S/2, 40S/2, 60S/2

Polyester yarn: commonly used thread for embroidery. Also known as polyester filament, it is processed from polyester chemical fiber filament, with good gloss, high strength, washing and light resistance. High temperature coloring required. Common specifications of polyester yarn: 150D/3, 150D/2

Gold and silver thread: commonly used thread for embroidery. Also known as metal wire, the outer layer of the wire is covered with a metal film, and the inner layer is actually composed of rayon or polyester yarn. Designers can create sparkling embroidery effects due to the sheen of the thread’s surface; however, at the same time, it also has a negative impact on embroidery. During embroidery, the needle, thread and fabric are often rubbed together to generate heat. At this time, the fine hair of the embroidery thread will play a role, and the heat will be taken away through the needle, while the surface layer of the metal wire does not carry fine hair. , the heat of the embroidery needle still exists, so that the metal film is dissolved by the heat, and even the thread is broken.

Gold and silver thread (gold and silver thread) is soft in texture and gorgeous in color. The colors of gold and silver lines are rich, including colorful (rainbow), laser, tan gold, deep gold, blue gold, silver, gray silver, red, green, blue, purple, snow blue, black and so on.

Gold and silver threads are widely used in weaving trademarks, wool yarns, knitted fabrics, warp knitted fabrics, woven fabrics, embroidery, socks, accessories, handicrafts, fashion, decorative fabrics, ties, gift packaging, etc.

Embroidery thread: also known as PP thread. Common thread used in home sewing and garment factories, with good strength and rich colors. Can also be used for embroidery.

 

Milk silk: It is not commonly used for embroidery thread. It is composed of chemical fiber filaments with no degree of hardness. It is soft to the touch and fluffy in texture.

Low elastic thread: Embroidery thread is not often used and can be used as a bottom thread.

High elastic yarn: not commonly used embroidery thread

2. Fabric

Water-soluble cloth: Water-soluble lace must use fabric, also known as water-soluble paper, non-woven fabric. The plant fiber is processed by various processes, and it is easy to get wet. After being wet, it is easy to “shift” when it is used for embroidery (the stitches produced by the embroidery deviate from the design position during machine embroidery, which will cause the lace to appear baggy. There are no quality problems such as bottom needle, dropped thread, looseness, deformation, etc.). When the water-soluble cloth is placed in water, the water-soluble cloth will begin to dissolve in the water when the water temperature exceeds 80°C, so that only the lace embroidered on the water-soluble cloth will be left. This kind of lace is called water-soluble lace.

Common specifications of water-soluble cloth are: 45 grams, 40 grams, 38 grams, 25 grams (for interlining).

 

Transparent mesh: mesh commonly used for embroidery. When used for embroidery, a backing cloth is required. Smooth to the touch, light and thin, the mesh is in the shape of hexagonal small edges, the color is lighter than that of lace when dyeing, and it can be colored at high and low temperatures. The tension of the mesh is not very strong, and small holes may appear if you are not careful when embroidering and shaping.

Hexagonal mesh: commonly used mesh for embroidery. When used for embroidery, a backing cloth is required. It is soft to the touch and the mesh is regular hexagon. According to the size of the mesh, it can be divided into: small hole hexagonal mesh and large hole hexagonal mesh. According to different materials, it can be divided into: polyester hexagonal mesh and nylon hexagonal mesh. Polyester hexagonal mesh is relatively hard to the touch, it needs to be colored at high temperature, and the price is cheap. Nylon hexagonal mesh is relatively softer and can be colored at room temperature, but the price is high. Be careful not to mix polyester hexagonal mesh with nylon hexagonal mesh, otherwise it will be troublesome.

Shaping net: also known as shaping yarn. Nets are commonly used for embroidery, and no interlining is generally required for embroidery. Thick to the touch, densely woven mesh. There are varieties of different quality, the better the quality, the greater the unit gram weight. Like the hexagonal mesh, the shaping mesh is also divided into polyester and nylon.

Polyester mesh: also called polyester mesh, hexagonal small mesh. When used for embroidery, a backing cloth is required. Embroidered mesh is not often used.

Stair net: large mesh, trapezoidal shape, need to add interlining when used for embroidery. Embroidered mesh is not often used.

Kegan yarn: also known as crystal yarn, glass yarn. Nets are commonly used for embroidery, and no interlining is generally required for embroidery. It is made of fine chemical fibers like cotton, woven by warp yarns and weft yarns. It feels hard, smooth and translucent. According to the density of weaving, it can be divided into 34, 36, 42 and so on. If you are not careful when embroidering, there will be huge needle holes.

Seersucker: Soft to the touch, soft and bubbly crepe. There are bleached, plain, printed and yarn-dyed color strips and so on. It is breathable and comfortable to wear, and it does not need to be ironed after washing. There are cotton, purified fiber or chemical fiber mixed spinning.

Cotton: Commonly used fabrics for embroidery. Cotton cloth is a woven fabric made of cotton yarn. It has the advantages of easy warmth, soft fit, moisture absorption, and good breathability. The disadvantage is that it is easy to shrink and wrinkle, and the appearance is not very crisp and beautiful, and it must be ironed frequently when wearing. Common embroidery specifications are: 88*64, 90*88

T/C cloth: commonly used fabric for embroidery. T means TERYLENE polyester, C means COTTON cotton. Polyester and cotton blended fabric

Leather: mainly used for appliqué embroidery.

Velvet: Mainly used for appliqué embroidery.

Satin cloth: mainly used for appliqué embroidery.

Hot-melt film: The use of hot-melt film is roughly the same as that of 25g water-soluble cloth. It is used as an embroidery interlining (auxiliary material) to ensure the quality (wrinkle, damage, deformation, wool, etc.) of light and thin fabrics during the embroidery process. Use heat to dissolve, such as a roller heat press or an iron. The advantage of this process is that it not only does not affect the pattern, but also has the effect of shaping and ironing, so that the pattern is flat and beautiful, and no lining is left intuitively. The disadvantage is that if the dyeing process is to be carried out, the sol crumbs that are not completely dissolved by the heat and are pressed by the embroidery needle or small needle step will appear.

Paper Pu: Also called interlining, it stabilizes stitches and improves the smoothness of embroidery. Cut Park: Cut off the nature Park, which is usually used as a backing. After the embroidery is completed, the remaining part can be cut off. Tear-off: It is a thinner paper than cut-off. After embroidery, the excess part can be torn off at will.

7. Post-processing of embroidery

1. Shearing: The thread trimmer cuts the jumper (floating thread) on the lace cleanly.

2. Embroidery: The embroiderer uses a home sewing machine or a special embroidery and patching machine to repair the quality problems such as missing embroidery and displacement during the embroidery process on the machine table.

3. Lamination: After the embroidered product using hot melt as interlining, it must undergo high temperature lamination treatment to melt the hot melt, leaving only the lace embroidered on the fabric. Batch lamination is processed with a special lamination machine, and a small amount of samples, such as samples, can be processed with an iron.

4. Setting: Lace and mesh lace produced by polyester thread should be subjected to high temperature setting treatment, so that the lace or mesh can be denatured (hardened) at a certain high temperature to achieve the purpose of setting. Lace stereotypes are divided into large and small.

5. Slitting: Also called edge punching, it is punched with an edge-opening machine along the designed edge of the pattern. Sometimes it can also be scalded with a soldering iron (mainly a flower).

6. Water-soluble: Lace with water-soluble cloth as interlining should be water-soluble. The principle of water soluble is that the water soluble cloth will dissolve in water when the water temperature exceeds 80 ℃.

7. Dyeing: normal temperature dyeing and high temperature dyeing. It is mainly determined by the coloring characteristics of the thread and fabric.

8. Sizing: Also called hardening. It is mainly to stiffen the finished polyester lace or rayon lace.

9. Drying: Dry the lace.

10. Hot drilling: add drilling on the finished lace. It can be divided into manual hot drilling and equipment hot drilling.

11. Hand ordering: manually order beads, sequins, bead tubes, acrylics of various shapes, etc. on the finished lace.

12. Packing: Pack the lace according to the customer’s request

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